Over the past few weeks I have been asked by several potter friends about the materials for Japanese
shino glazes and their equivalents in the west. I haven't actually used a
shino glaze for about fifteen years, but with some of the restaurant collaborations and requests from chefs, I may soon be revisiting the
shino arena.
It is probably useful to firstly put
shino into a frame of reference.
Once upon a time there was a tea master named
Shino Soushin (1444-1523) who directed that the potters of
Mino produce a white glaze. Their solution was to coat a low iron clay, either
mogusa clay or
gotomaki clay, with a local feldspar, occasionally mixed with some clay to make it more user friendly. The resulting glaze, wood fired of course, tended to be slightly grey in oxidation (
Nezumi Shino meaning Mouse
Shino) or pearly white with red flashing in reduction.
Generally
Shino glaze is
accredited to the
Momoyama period (1568-1600), and, yes, some of the finest
shino glazes come from that period, but it had its roots in the
Muromachi period (1336-1573). Interesting to note the overlap.
So...what was the feldspar?!
The simple answer is
Hiratsu Shino Choseki.
Choseki is Feldspar, the
Kanji "長石" means "long rock"
referring to the
rhombic crystalline structure of feldspar. This feldspar has a high Alumina to Silica ratio, combined with fairly high Sodium/
Potassium content. It is in fact the Sodium and Alumina under reduction that give the distinctive soft pink and orange flashing of
Shino. Which is why
Nepheline Syenite lends itself so well to
shino style glazes. Compare the
analyses;
Hiratsu Shino Choseki ;
SiO2 65.4
Al2O3 20.5
Fe2O3 0.09
TiO2 0.01
CaO 0.14
MgO 0.03
K2O 6.89
Na2O 5.13
Ignition loss 1.59
Nepheline Syenite;
SiO2 60.1
Al2O3 23
Fe2O3 0.09
TiO2 0.02
CaO 0.37
MgO 0.02
K2O 4.75
Na2O 10.6
Ignition loss 0.47
Many recipes have been based on this material, especially with its high sodium content. With the addition of up to 40% Clay (Ball clay, Kaolin, Porcelain, Terracotta or Fire clay) a huge range of variations can be achieved.
The representative Ball clays added to the feldspar in Japan were either Gairome;
SiO2 49.72
Al2O3 34.55
Fe2O3 1.23
CaO 0.16
MgO 0.24
K2O 0.74
Ignition loss 12.8
Or Kibushi Nendo;
SiO2 48.56
Al2O3 33.48
Fe2O3 0.87
CaO 0.30
MgO 0.15
K2O 0.36
Na2O 0.63
TiO2 0.12
Ignition loss 15.76
Other recipes have taken note of the high alumina to silica and high Alkaline flux and have included Soda ash into the mix. Others depend on fluxes other than Soda, the most significant being Lithium. In the west many
Shino glazes use
Spodumene as the base, which is basically;
Li2O. Al2O3. 4
SiO2
This is as rare as hens teeth in Japan, and the best replacement is
Petalite;
Li2O. Al2O3. 8
SiO2
Of course the Silica present in the rest of the glaze needs to be reduced to compensate. This can sometimes be done by replacing Kaolin for Ball Clay, but it is important to test with the materials one has at hand, as there are huge regional variations. Alternatively an addition of Lithium Carbonate and Alumina will compensate, but you will need to do the math!
It is this high alumina, high alkaline flux that gives my pottery its distinctive peach blush, as I am using a
porcelaineous, high alumina, low iron, clay in a wood firing, from which the natural salts vaporise from the wood, with the addition of a small amount of soda ash at the end of the firing. Not
Shino, but based on the same principles.
There are books that purport to tell the secrets of Japanese
wood firing, with lists of "American"
shino recipes and no examples of any actual
representative Japanese ceramics whatsoever. OK, I can live with that. As recipes they stay within the parameters of the original
Hiratsu Shino style, and if you are satisfied with that, fine.
But that is NOT all, oh no that is not ALL!
Japanese
shino glazes are not all made with
Hiratsu Shino Choseki, and not all flashing is Soda/Alumina. One must not forget our old friend Iron, who so happily serves the potter with a huge
gamut of glaze effects.
"And so", said the Cat in the Hat, "So, so, so, I will show you another good trick that I know!"
As my
sempai Ken
Matsuzaki demonstrates so well, any feldspar can make a
Shino, given the presence of Iron either underneath the glaze or within range of the external glaze surface. It is the nature of Iron oxide that in a heavy reduction atmosphere, between the temperatures of 1090 and 1130, over an extended period of time, it will
volatise and migrate to the surface of the glaze. This must be done before the glaze
cinters, sealing it and preventing the Iron from seeping through the porous glaze matrix. By painting a decoration in Iron under the glaze, or by utilizing a small amount of Iron in or on the body beneath the glaze an Iron blush can be created on the opalescent white
feldspathic glaze. A wash of Iron inside a
saggar surrounding the work can give a similar effect.
Maintaining a heavy reduction during cooling is essential, but in the end the micro fine layer of Iron will
re oxidize to give the distinctive
Shino blush. Merely seeing Iron through a semi transparent glaze is not
Shino. There is a lustre and warmth that springs from the natural process which makes
shino special. Colours that resonate with sunrises and sunsets, that remind us of the soft warmth of human skin.
The Japanese traditional teaching system does not put the onus on the teacher to teach; It is the responsibility of the student to actively learn. Shimaoka sensei told me that there are no secrets. You just need to ask the right questions.